Here is something that may have all 4 and then some of the categories.
Looks like Schaller made this for Gibson. What’s unique about this bridge is the rail connecting the roller cam to the bridge forcing the bridge to rock with the string movement. It’s a great way to reduce friction of the strings sliding over the bridge. Not unlike a Fender Jazzmaster where the bridge is designed to rock with the movement of the strings. It’s been a while since I actually used one, I don’t remember how well it worked.
Any one have this on their guitar? I would love some photos to post along with it.
- Glenn Fern Allen
I am very lucky to have great friends and co-workers.
Glenn has moved on to Product Specialist for Gibson, and many locals still see him around. Allen is on a family break for a year and Fernando is captain (or Pirate) of the ship!!
It can be a nightmare to adjust a truss rod at the end of your neck, especially if you can not get to it at all. You can go for it and chance messing up your pickguard. Maybe you can get lucky and remove a tele pickguard while you do the adjustments or you just have to take the neck off. Biggest problem is the strings hoping off while you are doing the work then trying to restring your guitar with a tangled up mess. Here is one way I have found to expedite the adjustment process.
Start by putting a capo on at the 1st or 2nd fret. This will help to keep the strings on the tuners. As you loosen the strings (as little as necessary) give the string a little tug on the bridge side of the capo to keep the tuner side tight. Be sure to hold the neck as I am in the photo while removing it. Then hold he strings in place on the neck while you give the rod a turn. Then get it all back together. If you did it right the string will still be on the tuners and all you will need to do is tune it up!
Couple ideas….. If your truss rod nut is showing, Stew Mac make a great tool they call the Truss Rod Crank for Tele. Check that out as well as all the other mega cool tools. Another trick to keep the strings in place is to put a piece of thin cardboard under the strings between the nut and 1st fret and tape the string to it.
Nothing says cool like outdoor guitar repair. Wind in my hair etc…..
A while ago I had to change out the kill switch on a Buckethead guitar. Problem is the switch it comes with is a midi disco trigger button, not the best. There tends to be a lot of clicking noise when you use it. I wanted to use the large format button so I took apart one of my favorite switches , which I can custom wire for very little noise.
I inserted the guts into the big switch. Little tricky to keep the glue in the right place but worked great. The feel was a little different but worth it to keep the noise down.
On Buckethead’s original guitar I has to change out his smaller black switch that was giving him problems. Problem was he was so used to the feel of that original switch. All I could do was take it apart, clean it, make it solid and send it on its way.
I find that every kill switch has a distinct feel and it helps to find one that fits your style.
OK, says it right here !!!
Tim and I (and Plek not pictured) teaming up on Joe’s 3 new guitars. Some new frets a couple Sustainiac’s and lots of guitar loving. It was fun to see the development of the 24 fret version of the JS guitar last year. So much went into making it all come together, mainly Joe’s ear and feel that guided the changes. Looks like this year you can get the Sustainiac with the guitar! Keep and eye out for it.